Breaking down borders along Northumberland’s glorious coast on a six-day walk with HF Holidays
To walkers it has become the trek-press. And the 7.55am train from Inverness has expanded my horizons beyond the Highlands.
Just before the clock strikes 1pm, I’m in Alnmouth on the Northumberland coast about to begin a week-long trek up the magnificent - and still underrated - section of the King Charles III England Coast Path National Trail.
HF Holidays, the walking co-operative set-up 111 years ago by country pastor turned social innovator Thomas Arthur Leonard, has cornered the market in this part of the world.
Leonard sought to improve the lives of the factory workers by offering them walking holidays as an alternative to the annual trend of spending a week at the seaside. Its country retreats include one in Glen Coe.
Today, based in a seaside country house, next to England’s oldest nine-hole golf course, Alnmouth draws walkers from all over the world.
My group of 15 included a man with four degrees, a retired farmer, a leading care home campaigner and an ex English professor – all led by the amiable Nigel, an engineer and one of the 650-plus experienced volunteers who head guided walks for HF.
The six-day walk itself is a glorious gem with miles of stunning beaches - many with long stretches of golden sands, others with huge spreading stone slabs - castle after castle and numerous links golf courses.
In some sections it winds inland to pass through woods - one pine-clad appropriately named the Scottish Forest - and open countryside.
It even goes across a busy railway line where walkers have to ring the signalman to get permission to cross and estimate the time to do so!
Stretching from the birdlife-rich dunes of Cresswell in the south to the walled border town of Berwick in the north, the 62-mile route simply follows one of the finest stretches of National Landscapes-awarded coastline in the country.
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Quaint fishing villages dot the walk, which passes through no fewer than two National Nature Reserves. And the daily treks vary between 6.6 miles and 13 miles. There is always a pub somewhere!
In late September, I found the weather colder than I expected, especially with the occasional haar, so pack accordingly. Boots with a good tread are a must.
But what other walk can claim three major castles - Warkworth, Bamburgh, and Dunstanburgh?
Walking south to north, the trail starts in Cresswell and heads to Warkworth, Alnmouth, Craster, Seahouses, Belford and Holy Island, before finishing at Berwick-upon-Tweed.
But, probably one of the most photographed sections of coast goes past the imposing Bamburgh Castle, set behind golden sand dunes.
Walks always throw up surprises - like a garden dedicated to Alan Shearer. And heading inland, The Salmon Inn at Belford proudly proclaims itself for playing its part in the blossoming romance between Hollywood superstars Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.
The walk switches to woodland and farmland en-route to Holy Island. Linked to the mainland by a tidal causeway, this sacred place is where you can follow in the footsteps of St Aidan, who left Iona, to build a priory nearly 1400 years ago.
There is a Pilgrim’s Way across the sands - which some of my group impressively braved - but it’s easy to get caught out by the tide.
The final day of the trek is 12 miles from Fenwick to Berwick-upon-Tweed. To cap it all there was an exhibition of 20 LS Lowry works on display in a museum. Lowry used to stay in the town - and also at other spots on the east coast as far away as Wick, which he painted.
Having reached the border with Scotland, the train and HF have shown there really are no borders for the intrepid Highland walker willing to expand their horizons.
Details
The guided trail walk costs £965 per person - but check for regular discounts - and is for seven nights/six days walking.
It includes comfortable en-suite rooms, cooked or continental breakfast every morning, three-course evening meals and a packed lunch. All transport to and from the daily walks is also provided.
The return train fare cost me £75, including railcard.
HF membership starts from a one-off £100, but includes a good range of benefits. The non-member fee is £30 per person.
